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Read the
Ocean.
a plain-language guide to surf forecasting

Every surfer has opened a forecast app and felt their brain short-circuit — numbers, arrows, colors everywhere. This page makes it click. Read it once and you'll never look at a forecast the same way.

Where waves come from

Every swell starts with wind. A storm drags across the ocean surface — the longer it blows over open water, the more organized the energy becomes. That stretch of ocean is called fetch. Waves leave the storm, shed their chaos over thousands of miles, and arrive at your beach as clean, powerful lines.

Storm
Wind over fetch
Open Ocean
Energy organizes
Your Break
Clean lines arrive
Two kinds of waves

Not all waves are equal. Wind swell arrives from a nearby storm — short, choppy, inconsistent. Groundswell has traveled thousands of miles, shedding its roughness along the way. One gives you a headache. The other gives you the session of your life.

Groundswell
14s · long wavelength · organized
holds shapemore powerpredictable
Wind Swell
7s · short wavelength · chaotic
choppyweakerhard to time
The three numbers

Every forecast boils down to three data points. Learn these and you can read any forecast on the planet.

4ft
Height
Trough to crest, measured offshore. Don't fixate on this alone — context from period matters just as much.
14s
Period
Seconds between crests. The single best indicator of power. Under 10s is wind swell. 14s+ is the good stuff.
NSWE
Direction
Where the swell is coming from, in degrees. Tells you whether it'll reach your break, wrap a headland, or get blocked.
Why period is the secret

Two forecasts. Same height. Completely different surf. This is the thing most beginners miss — and once you get it, you'll never look at a period number the same way.

4 ft @ 8s
137
fun beach break
4 ft @ 14s
355
solid, powerful swell

Same height. The 14-second swell carries more than twice the power — because longer period means the energy extends deeper into the water column. When it hits the shallows, all of that compressed force unloads at once.

→ Juice calculator
How to read a forecast

When you open a forecast your eyes will land on height first. That's backwards. Here's the right order.

Day
Height
Period ①
Dir
Juice
THU
May 22
4–5ft
14s
NW
400
FRI
May 23
2–3ft
8s
S
86
SAT
May 24
6–7ft
10s
NW
326
1
Period first
Anything under 10s is wind swell — lower your expectations. 12s+ gets interesting. 14s+ and you should probably call in sick.
2
Height in context
A 3ft day at 15s can be better than a 6ft day at 8s. Height without period is almost meaningless. You know this now.
3
Direction last
Once the period and height are worth caring about, check if the swell actually hits your break. A north swell won't do much for a south-facing beach.
Glossary

The words you'll hear in the lineup — explained plainly.